maximobE-H: Letter by letter with the ABC of Perfumery System.
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Hello Everybody, and happy weekend!
First of all my apologies for the interruption on the delivering of these posts. Lab was under renovation and what I thought was gonna be 1 or 2 weeks ended up being more than one month. Regardless, I am back!
Let's continue with the in depth explanation of each letter of the ABC of Perfumery: Today we’ll cover from (E) to (H).
If you didn't read about the ABC of Perfumery, you should first read about it in the series of articles i wrote before. This postings (letter by letter) is complementary of the main introduction to the ABC and will make NO SENSE whatsoever if you don't have a firm grasp of how the ABC of perfumery works. This system is explain in 4 postings: Post 1, Post 2, Post 3, and Post 4
Letter E:
(E)dible
(E)dibles are tricky. First of, you would rarely use them as a heart note (you can try thought) but mostly as a modifier and in really small tiny amounts. The common descriptors of this group are vegetables, coffee, nuts, meat and fish.
Edible notes don't really exist as a perfumery group themselves but are really important in artificial flavoring as odor is an important part of the way we perceive the sense of taste..
From the synesthesia point of view, my personal associations are: Color: Yellow-brown, Sound: inharmony, Shape: A square, Texture: plastic, greasy, Feeling: Disgust, Image: Feet. Of course these are personal responses and yours might be totally different. The important thing is to make the association and try to use it as a creativity tool.
Chemically speaking we are in the realm of the Thiazoles, Pyrazines and Sulphides.
As for sub-classification of the E on our ABC, we have:
Eg – Sulphur
Eh – Vegetable
Ep – Coffee
Et – Meat
Eu – Fish
Ew – Nut
Aromatherapy:
There are no essential oils materials in this group, so no aromatherapy benefits either.
As an example, the perfume, EMERGE (for men) has 0.81% of Geranyl Isovalerate, as a modifier.
Here is a list of the most common materials on the (E)dible group. It is not by any means exhaustive and it should be used only as a reference.
Aroma chemicals:
2 acetyl Pyrazine
2 acetyl Thiazole
2,3 Dimethyl Pyrazine
2-iso Propyl 4 methyl Thiazole
Coffee Oil
Dimethyl Sulfide
Ethyl safranate
Geranyl Isovalerate
Methyl Lattone (Givaudan)
Saffranal (I consider this and other saffron related odors to be in the letter (I)ris, but perfumersworld consider them an (E)dible
And the following Perfumerword’s exclusive perfume compound bases, a mixture of aroma chemicals, isolates and essential oils:
Coffee Fleuressence
Edible Fleuressence
Fragrant Rice Fleuressence
Green Tea Fleuressence
Nut Fleuressence
Root Fleuressence
Saffron Fleuressence
Sweet Corn Fleuressence
Letter F:
(F)ruit
Fruity notes can be used in any of 2 ways: as a main character (heart) of a composition as a major note or as a detail (minor note) to add a twist or a different touch to a perfume..
It is important to note that there are NO essential oils from fruits. All the fruity smells come from aroma chemicals, hence, there will not be an aromatherapy benefits section.
From the chemistry point of view we find here the Acetates (Alcohol + Acetic Acid)
The common description of this smell is Sour, Sweet fruit, Strawberry.
By varying the proportions of different products categories we can achieve different fruits: Try (G) + (F) to make an apple or (F) + (G) to make a Melon. Or (I) + (F) you obtain a violet while (F) + (I) gives you Raspberry
As for sub-classifications, we have:
Fa – Apple
Fb – Blackcurrant
Fd – Peach, apricot
Fe – Durian
Fg – Melon
Fi – Raspberry
Fj – Banana
Fo – Cherry
Fn – Grape
Fp – Pineapple
Fv – Strawberry
The perfume BOLD (unisex) has a 8.48% of Allyl Cyclohexyl propionate combined also with a pear accord for its top note.
Here is a list of the most common materials on the (F)ruit group. It is not by any means exhaustive and it should be used only as a reference.
Aroma chemicals:
2-methyl 2-Pentanoic Acid
2- Methylbutyl 2-Mwthyl Butyrate
Acetic Acid
Aldehyde C-16 Ethyl Methyl Phenyl Glycidate
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Allyl Caproate
Allyl Cyclohexyl Propionate
Allyl Heptoate
Aprifloren (Symrise)
Benzaldehyde
Benzyl Propionate
Buccoxime (powder)
Butyl Butyrate
Butyl Isovalerate
Cis-3-Hexenyl Isovalerate
Cis-3-Hexenyl Tiglate
Datilat
Diethyl Malonate
Ethyl 2-Methylbutyrate
Ethyl Acetate
Ethyl Acetoacetate
Ethyl Amyl Ketone
Ethyl Butyrate
Ethyl Isovalerate
Ethyl Lactate
Ethyl Levulinate
Fructone B
Hexanoic acid
Hexanol
Hexyl Acetate
Isoamyl Acetate
Isoamyl Butyrate
Melonal
Methyl Pample Mousse
Nectaryl
Oxane
ROBERTET NATURALS
Raspberry Ketone (powder)
Verdox
And the following Perfumerword’s exclusives perfume compound bases, a mixture of aroma chemicals, isolates and essential oils:
Apple Fleuressence
Banana Fleuressence
Blackcurrant Fleuressence
Cherry Fleuressence
Cognac Wine Fleuressence
Dewberry Fleuressence
Fruit Fleuressence
Grape Fleuressence
Light 'n Airy Fleuressence
Mango Fleuressence
Melon Fleuressence
Peach Fleuressence
Pineapple Fleuressence
Prune Fleuressence
Raspberry Fleuressence
Strawberry Fleuressence
Letter G:
(G)reen
Same as the (E)dibles, the (G)reen is basically a modifier group. In some cases (not many) has been used in a perfume to provide an accentuated leafy green note, such is the case of Vent Vert with a strong galbanum note. Or others like Crystal (Channel) where the green is the base for florals or Miyake using for its muguet and narcotic jasmine notes a strong green base.
Alcohols in this group, tend to be less fruity when compared with their acetates counterparts, as instance: cis-3-HexenOL is less fruity than cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate.
The common description of this smell is Cut grass and leaves.
As for sub-classifications, we have:
Gg – Fresh - Grassy
Gh – Galbanum
Gn – PhenylacetAldehyde
Aromatherapy:
A fresh natural character usually used to lift other oils. Typical oils: Galbanum, Mastic, cis-3-Hexenol (natural)
Synesthesia:
Color: Bright green, Sound: Mower, Shape: Sharp , Texture: Leaves, Image: chalk on blackboard.
Following with examples of my perfumes, SiS has 3.01% of Helional or the Perfume ReAdY has 8.52% of Cucumber Fleuressence and 2.84% of PADMA in PEA.
Here, several of the materials in the (G)reen group. It is not by any means exhaustive and it should be used only as a reference.
Aroma chemicals:
Adoxal
cis-3-Hexenol
cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate
cis-3-Hexenyl Benzoate
cis-3-Hexenyl Butyrate
cis-3-Hexenyl Hexanoate
cis-3-Hexenyl Salicylate
Helional
Methyl Octine Carbonate
PADMA (Phenyl Acetaldehyde Dymethyl Acetal)
Phenyl propyl Alcohol
Phenyl propyl Aldehyde
Phenyl Acetaldehyde in PEA
Stemone
Styralyl Acetate
Styralyl Alcohol
Styralyl Propionate
Triplal
Essential oils:
Galbanum
Galbanum Resinoid
Hyacinth
Tomato Leaf Natural
And the following Perfumerword’s exclusives perfume compound bases, a mixture of aroma chemicals, isolates and essential oils:
Clear Green Blender Fleuressence
Cucumber Fleuressence
Galbanum Fleuressence
Green Fleuressence
Hyacinth Fleuressence
Lilac Fleuressence
Naturelle Fleuressence
Naturelle Homme Fleuressence
Letter H:
(H)erbs
The first note that comes to mind in this group is Lavender. Herbal notes used in Aromatherapy such as Rosemary and sage are part of it as well. Remember that when you mix (H) with (Y) you get the group of Fougere (ferns). One example of this is Paco Rabanne pour Homme with Lavender, Pine Needle, Oakmoss and New Mown Hay (coumarin)
We include in this (H)erbs group all the herbs we used for cooking that we consider "cool", in opposition to the (S)pices, which we will consider "hot". This is just a way to differentiate both groups and not put them all together in the sames "coking" group.
Synesthesia:
Color: Dark Green, Sound:romantic, Texture: Ice, Feeling: Relaxing, Image: Ice skating.
As for sub-classifications, we have:
Hl – Lavender
Hb – Sage
Aromatherapy:
Terpenoid Based essential OIls. associated with neutral skin care with a balancing effect. Also act as blenders for other oil combinations..Between the many benefits of the oils in this group we find: a lot of anti-irritant and anti-bacterial.
My perfume, ENVISION Homme has 3.83% of Sweet basil essential oil and 1.28% of HERBAC (IFF).
Following, several of the aroma-chemicals and essential oils in this (H)erbal group. Again, it is not by any means exhaustive, and it should be used only as a reference.
Aroma chemicals
Dihydro Carvyl Acetate
Givescone
Herbac (IFF)
Sagecete
Essential Oils:
Anethi
Armoise
Cape Snowbush
Blue Chamomile
Roman Chamomile
Clary sage
Davana
Dill
Basil, exotic
Basic, Holy
Hyssop
Lavandin
Lavender
Lavender Spike
Manuka
Mate (absolute)
Parsley Seed
Plai
Rosemary
Sage, dalmation
Sage, Spanish
Sweet marjoram
Tea trea
Valerian Root
And the following Perfumerword’s exclusives perfume compound bases, a mixture of aroma chemicals, isolates and essential oils:
Armoise Fleuressence
Lavender Fleuressence
Rosemary Fleuressence
Well, four letters seem to be enough for one posting, Next week we'll dive into I to L.
My apologies again for the delay and I hope you enjoyed and found the information useful and applicable to your perfumery skills and development..
Wondering how the examples of my perfumes smell?
What are you waiting to sign up so you participate automatically in the draw of the bag of samples? You will find samples of every example I mentioned in this posting!
As usual, if you enjoyed, or did not, have questions or corrections or just want to vent or ramble, please, leave a comment.
Máximo says goodbye from sunny Florida and wishes you a wonderful week. See you next week!