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E-H: Letter by letter with the ABC of Perfumery System.


Click acá para la version en español

Hello Everybody, and happy weekend!


First of all my apologies for the interruption on the delivering of these posts. Lab was under renovation and what I thought was gonna be 1 or 2 weeks ended up being more than one month. Regardless, I am back!

Let's continue with the in depth explanation of each letter of the ABC of Perfumery: Today we’ll cover from (E) to (H).


If you didn't read about the ABC of Perfumery, you should first read about it in the series of articles i wrote before. This postings (letter by letter) is complementary of the main introduction to the ABC and will make NO SENSE whatsoever if you don't have a firm grasp of how the ABC of perfumery works. This system is explain in 4 postings: Post 1, Post 2, Post 3, and Post 4


Letter E:

(E)dible

(E)dibles are tricky. First of, you would rarely use them as a heart note (you can try thought) but mostly as a modifier and in really small tiny amounts. The common descriptors of this group are vegetables, coffee, nuts, meat and fish.


Edible notes don't really exist as a perfumery group themselves but are really important in artificial flavoring as odor is an important part of the way we perceive the sense of taste..


From the synesthesia point of view, my personal associations are: Color: Yellow-brown, Sound: inharmony, Shape: A square, Texture: plastic, greasy, Feeling: Disgust, Image: Feet. Of course these are personal responses and yours might be totally different. The important thing is to make the association and try to use it as a creativity tool.


Chemically speaking we are in the realm of the Thiazoles, Pyrazines and Sulphides.


As for sub-classification of the E on our ABC, we have:

  • Eg – Sulphur

  • Eh – Vegetable

  • Ep – Coffee

  • Et – Meat

  • Eu – Fish

  • Ew – Nut

Aromatherapy:

There are no essential oils materials in this group, so no aromatherapy benefits either.


As an example, the perfume, EMERGE (for men) has 0.81% of Geranyl Isovalerate, as a modifier.

Here is a list of the most common materials on the (E)dible group. It is not by any means exhaustive and it should be used only as a reference.


Aroma chemicals:

  • 2 acetyl Pyrazine

  • 2 acetyl Thiazole

  • 2,3 Dimethyl Pyrazine

  • 2-iso Propyl 4 methyl Thiazole

  • Coffee Oil

  • Dimethyl Sulfide

  • Ethyl safranate

  • Geranyl Isovalerate

  • Methyl Lattone (Givaudan)

  • Saffranal (I consider this and other saffron related odors to be in the letter (I)ris, but perfumersworld consider them an (E)dible

And the following Perfumerword’s exclusive perfume compound bases, a mixture of aroma chemicals, isolates and essential oils:

  • Coffee Fleuressence

  • Edible Fleuressence

  • Fragrant Rice Fleuressence

  • Green Tea Fleuressence

  • Nut Fleuressence

  • Root Fleuressence

  • Saffron Fleuressence

  • Sweet Corn Fleuressence


Letter F:

(F)ruit

Fruity notes can be used in any of 2 ways: as a main character (heart) of a composition as a major note or as a detail (minor note) to add a twist or a different touch to a perfume..


It is important to note that there are NO essential oils from fruits. All the fruity smells come from aroma chemicals, hence, there will not be an aromatherapy benefits section.

From the chemistry point of view we find here the Acetates (Alcohol + Acetic Acid)

The common description of this smell is Sour, Sweet fruit, Strawberry.


By varying the proportions of different products categories we can achieve different fruits: Try (G) + (F) to make an apple or (F) + (G) to make a Melon. Or (I) + (F) you obtain a violet while (F) + (I) gives you Raspberry


As for sub-classifications, we have:

  • Fa – Apple

  • Fb – Blackcurrant

  • Fd – Peach, apricot

  • Fe – Durian

  • Fg – Melon

  • Fi – Raspberry

  • Fj – Banana

  • Fo – Cherry

  • Fn – Grape

  • Fp – Pineapple

  • Fv – Strawberry


The perfume BOLD (unisex) has a 8.48% of Allyl Cyclohexyl propionate combined also with a pear accord for its top note.

Here is a list of the most common materials on the (F)ruit group. It is not by any means exhaustive and it should be used only as a reference.


Aroma chemicals:

  • 2-methyl 2-Pentanoic Acid

  • 2- Methylbutyl 2-Mwthyl Butyrate

  • Acetic Acid

  • Aldehyde C-16 Ethyl Methyl Phenyl Glycidate

  • Allyl Amyl Glycolate

  • Allyl Caproate

  • Allyl Cyclohexyl Propionate

  • Allyl Heptoate

  • Aprifloren (Symrise)

  • Benzaldehyde

  • Benzyl Propionate

  • Buccoxime (powder)

  • Butyl Butyrate

  • Butyl Isovalerate

  • Cis-3-Hexenyl Isovalerate

  • Cis-3-Hexenyl Tiglate

  • Datilat

  • Diethyl Malonate

  • Ethyl 2-Methylbutyrate

  • Ethyl Acetate

  • Ethyl Acetoacetate

  • Ethyl Amyl Ketone

  • Ethyl Butyrate

  • Ethyl Isovalerate

  • Ethyl Lactate

  • Ethyl Levulinate

  • Fructone B

  • Hexanoic acid

  • Hexanol

  • Hexyl Acetate

  • Isoamyl Acetate

  • Isoamyl Butyrate

  • Melonal

  • Methyl Pample Mousse

  • Nectaryl

  • Oxane

  • ROBERTET NATURALS

  • Raspberry Ketone (powder)

  • Verdox

And the following Perfumerword’s exclusives perfume compound bases, a mixture of aroma chemicals, isolates and essential oils:

  • Apple Fleuressence

  • Banana Fleuressence

  • Blackcurrant Fleuressence

  • Cherry Fleuressence

  • Cognac Wine Fleuressence

  • Dewberry Fleuressence

  • Fruit Fleuressence

  • Grape Fleuressence

  • Light 'n Airy Fleuressence

  • Mango Fleuressence

  • Melon Fleuressence

  • Peach Fleuressence

  • Pineapple Fleuressence

  • Prune Fleuressence

  • Raspberry Fleuressence

  • Strawberry Fleuressence


Letter G:

(G)reen

Same as the (E)dibles, the (G)reen is basically a modifier group. In some cases (not many) has been used in a perfume to provide an accentuated leafy green note, such is the case of Vent Vert with a strong galbanum note. Or others like Crystal (Channel) where the green is the base for florals or Miyake using for its muguet and narcotic jasmine notes a strong green base.


Alcohols in this group, tend to be less fruity when compared with their acetates counterparts, as instance: cis-3-HexenOL is less fruity than cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate.


The common description of this smell is Cut grass and leaves.


As for sub-classifications, we have:

  • Gg – Fresh - Grassy

  • Gh – Galbanum

  • Gn – PhenylacetAldehyde

Aromatherapy:

A fresh natural character usually used to lift other oils. Typical oils: Galbanum, Mastic, cis-3-Hexenol (natural)


Synesthesia:

Color: Bright green, Sound: Mower, Shape: Sharp , Texture: Leaves, Image: chalk on blackboard.

Following with examples of my perfumes, SiS has 3.01% of Helional or the Perfume ReAdY has 8.52% of Cucumber Fleuressence and 2.84% of PADMA in PEA.

Here, several of the materials in the (G)reen group. It is not by any means exhaustive and it should be used only as a reference.


Aroma chemicals:

  • Adoxal

  • cis-3-Hexenol

  • cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate

  • cis-3-Hexenyl Benzoate

  • cis-3-Hexenyl Butyrate

  • cis-3-Hexenyl Hexanoate

  • cis-3-Hexenyl Salicylate

  • Helional

  • Methyl Octine Carbonate

  • PADMA (Phenyl Acetaldehyde Dymethyl Acetal)

  • Phenyl propyl Alcohol

  • Phenyl propyl Aldehyde

  • Phenyl Acetaldehyde in PEA

  • Stemone

  • Styralyl Acetate

  • Styralyl Alcohol

  • Styralyl Propionate

  • Triplal

Essential oils:

  • Galbanum

  • Galbanum Resinoid

  • Hyacinth

  • Tomato Leaf Natural

And the following Perfumerword’s exclusives perfume compound bases, a mixture of aroma chemicals, isolates and essential oils:

  • Clear Green Blender Fleuressence

  • Cucumber Fleuressence

  • Galbanum Fleuressence

  • Green Fleuressence

  • Hyacinth Fleuressence

  • Lilac Fleuressence

  • Naturelle Fleuressence

  • Naturelle Homme Fleuressence


Letter H:

(H)erbs

The first note that comes to mind in this group is Lavender. Herbal notes used in Aromatherapy such as Rosemary and sage are part of it as well. Remember that when you mix (H) with (Y) you get the group of Fougere (ferns). One example of this is Paco Rabanne pour Homme with Lavender, Pine Needle, Oakmoss and New Mown Hay (coumarin)


We include in this (H)erbs group all the herbs we used for cooking that we consider "cool", in opposition to the (S)pices, which we will consider "hot". This is just a way to differentiate both groups and not put them all together in the sames "coking" group.


Synesthesia:

Color: Dark Green, Sound:romantic, Texture: Ice, Feeling: Relaxing, Image: Ice skating.


As for sub-classifications, we have:

  • Hl – Lavender

  • Hb – Sage


Aromatherapy:

Terpenoid Based essential OIls. associated with neutral skin care with a balancing effect. Also act as blenders for other oil combinations..Between the many benefits of the oils in this group we find: a lot of anti-irritant and anti-bacterial.


My perfume, ENVISION Homme has 3.83% of Sweet basil essential oil and 1.28% of HERBAC (IFF).

Following, several of the aroma-chemicals and essential oils in this (H)erbal group. Again, it is not by any means exhaustive, and it should be used only as a reference.


Aroma chemicals

  • Dihydro Carvyl Acetate

  • Givescone

  • Herbac (IFF)